In short
Artificial grass is installed in five phases: measuring and planning the area, removing the old ground, creating a compacted base of crushed stone and chippings, rolling out the weed membrane, and finally cutting, joining, and securing the artificial grass. For 30–50 m², experienced DIYers usually need one to two weekends – most of the work goes into the base layer.
Artificial grass is only as good as its installation. Waves, visible seams, or puddles almost always have the same cause: a base layer that isn’t level, stable, or permeable enough. In this guide, we’ll show you step by step how to properly install artificial grass in your garden – and what matters on patios, balconies, or concrete. These tips come from over 25 years of hands-on installation experience from our team.
Tools and Materials: What You’ll Need
| Material | Tool |
|---|---|
| Artificial grass (sold by the roll, usually 2 m or 4 m wide) | Spade, shovel, wheelbarrow |
| Crushed stone (e.g., 0/32 grain size) for the base layer | Plate compactor (can be rented from a hardware store) |
| Chippings or crushed sand (e.g., 0/5) as a leveling layer | Straightedge, spirit level, rake |
| Weed membrane (geotextile) | Utility knife with spare blades |
| Seam tape and artificial grass adhesive | Tape measure, string, chalk |
| Edging (lawn edging, curb stones, etc.) | Rubber mallet, caulking gun |
| Ground pegs/artificial grass nails, silica sand if needed | Stiff broom or artificial grass brush |
Step 1: Measure the Area and Create a Layout Plan
Measure the area precisely and sketch it on paper. Plan the strips so that as few seams as possible are created and all strips face the same pile direction. The blades should ideally point toward the main viewing point – such as the patio – so the lawn looks its fullest.
- Allow for 5–10% waste, more for irregularly shaped areas.
- Artificial grass is usually supplied in roll widths of 2 m or 4 m. Choose the width that best suits your area.
- Avoid placing seams in main walking paths whenever possible.
Step 2: Remove the Old Ground
Remove old lawn, roots, and stones. For a garden base layer, excavation is typically about 8–12 cm deep – depending on soil stability and intended use. For clay-heavy, poorly draining soils, you may need to go deeper.
Practical Tip from TOP GREEN
Plan for a slight slope away from the house wall from the outset. This way, rainwater can drain safely even during heavy rain – even if the artificial grass itself is permeable.
Step 3: Install the Edging
The edging holds the base layer in shape and gives the artificial grass a clean finish. Install lawn edging made of metal or plastic, curb stones, or palisades before laying the base layer – this allows the crushed stone to be compacted cleanly right up to the edge.
Step 4: Install and Compact the Crushed Stone Base Layer
The base layer is the foundation of your artificial grass. Apply crushed stone to a thickness of about 5–8 cm and compact it in layers using the plate compactor. A well-compacted base layer prevents dents later on and ensures proper drainage.
Step 5: Level the Leveling Layer
A thin leveling layer of chippings or crushed sand, about 2–3 cm thick, goes on top of the base layer. Level it precisely using a straightedge and spirit level, then compact it lightly once more. Any unevenness overlooked now will show through the artificial grass later.
You can read more about the structure in our glossary under Base Layer.
Step 6: Lay Out the Weed Membrane
Roll out the weed membrane over the entire area, overlapping the strips by about 10 cm. The membrane prevents weeds from growing through from below while remaining permeable to water.
Step 7: Roll Out, Let Acclimate, and Cut the Artificial Grass
Roll out the artificial grass and, if possible, let it sit in the sun for a few hours. This relaxes the backing fabric, smooths out roll creases, and makes the material easier to fit.
- Always cut from the back between the rows of stitching – this way you won’t damage any blades.
- Change blades frequently: dull blades tear the backing.
- Cut edges a bit more generously at first, then trim to an exact fit at the end.
Step 8: Join the Seams
Place two strips edge to edge – without gaps or overlap. Fold back the edges, position the seam tape centered beneath the seam, and apply the artificial grass adhesive. Then fold both strips onto the adhesive bed, press firmly, and allow to cure. Important: all strips must have the same pile direction, otherwise the seam will be immediately visible.
Step 9: Secure the Edges
At the edges, the artificial grass is secured with ground pegs or artificial grass nails spaced about 20–30 cm apart, or glued to the edging. Smooth the blades over the nail heads with your fingers so they remain hidden.
Step 10: Brush In and – If Required – Add Sand Infill
Finally, brush the blades against the grain so they stand upright. Whether silica sand is added as an infill depends on the product: many modern garden lawns require little to no sand at all. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions here.
Special Cases: Patios, Balconies, and Concrete
On solid surfaces, the crushed stone base layer is not needed. What matters here is that water can drain away.
| Surface | What to Consider |
|---|---|
| Concrete and Screed | Check the slope, add a drainage mat if needed; glue the artificial grass down or lay it loose and secure the edges. |
| Pavers and Tiles | Bridge joints and uneven spots with a leveling mat so they don’t show through. |
| Balcony (Rental Apartment) | Lay loose instead of gluing, keep drains clear, and follow the property management’s weight and fire safety requirements. |
| Roof Terrace | Never damage the waterproofing with nails or anchors; account for drainage and wind uplift. |
The Most Common Mistakes When Installing Artificial Grass
| Mistake | Consequence | How to Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Base layer not compacted | Dents and depressions after a few months | Compact in layers using a plate compactor |
| Pile direction mixed up | Strips appear different shades, seams visible | Align all strips before cutting |
| No slope, no drainage | Puddles, moss, odors | Plan for a slope, choose a permeable base layer |
| Forgot the weed membrane | Weeds grow through the drainage holes | Lay the membrane across the entire area with overlap |
| Too little adhesive at the seams | Seams open up with temperature changes | Apply adhesive evenly, press strips down firmly |
DIY Installation or Professional Installation?
Small, level areas on balconies or patios can be installed well on your own. For garden areas requiring a base layer, hiring a professional company is usually worthwhile: the groundwork is physically demanding, machinery needs to be rented, and mistakes in the base layer can only be corrected later with considerable effort.
| DIY Installation | Professional Installation | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | materials and machine rental only | materials plus labor |
| Time Required | often several weekends | usually a few days |
| Result | depends on experience and tools | level base layer, invisible seams |
| Warranty | materials only | materials and installation |
Our Offer
As an official Royal Grass® partner, we handle planning, base layer, and installation – nationwide. Learn more about artificial grass installation or compare varieties in advance at our show garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About Installing Artificial Grass
How deep do you need to excavate for artificial grass?
For a garden base layer, excavation is typically about 8 to 12 cm. On top of this comes a compacted crushed stone base layer of about 5 to 8 cm and a leveling layer of chippings or crushed sand of about 2 to 3 cm.
Can artificial grass be laid directly on soil?
We advise against this. Without a compacted base layer, dents quickly form, water pools, and weeds grow through. A base layer of crushed stone and chippings should always be laid on soil or old lawn.
Does artificial grass need a weed membrane?
Yes, when installing on a soil or crushed stone base, a weed membrane is advisable. It prevents weeds from growing up through the drainage holes while still allowing water to pass through.
Which direction should artificial grass be laid in?
All strips must have the same pile direction. The lawn looks most natural when the blades point toward the main viewing point, such as the patio or living room window.
How long does it take to install artificial grass?
A professional company typically installs a standard 50 to 100 m² garden, including the base layer, in just a few days. If doing it yourself, you should plan for several weekends for the same area.